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          首頁 > 行業 > 資訊 > 企業 > 山東如意競逐Bally: 中國企業海外并購加速度

          山東如意競逐Bally: 中國企業海外并購加速度

           2018-1-12

            瑞士奢侈品Bally尋求出售的事宜還未落地,傳聞競購的買家里又多了一位來自中國的“有錢人”山東如意集團。

            2017年下半年,在Bally母公司JohA.BenckiserCo.將旗下奢侈品業務JimmyChoo和Belstaff分別賣給MichaelKors和石油化工巨頭英力士之后,JAB啟動了最后一個奢侈品牌Bally的出售流程。傳言中的潛在買家包括中國本土服裝企業七匹狼、復星國際以及來自日本的伊藤忠商事株式會社。

            近兩年的奢侈品市場回暖致使全球奢侈品行業的買家和賣家也更加忙碌,大小并購重組不斷。

            在這其中不斷閃現出中國企業的身影,從山東如意、七匹狼到復星集團、歌力思等,中國資本“買買買”逐漸滲透進產業鏈的各個環節。

            過去十年,服裝產業并不是中資出海的常客,但隨著近年來國內服裝行業告別粗放增長,持續低迷、品牌弱勢及轉型壓力下,海外并購正成為國內企業尋找新增長點的機會。

            另一方面,不斷進入的國際品牌以更積極的方式蠶食著本土服裝企業的市場份額,多元品牌的發展也帶來更多的挑戰。

          海外的品牌蛋糕

            2017年5月8日,Coach以24億美元買下KateSpade,并于同年10月11日宣布變更公司名字為Tapestry。業內將此舉看作是對于此前Coach收購鞋履品牌StuartWeitzman、KateSpade的整合和多元化戰略,以及其對標LVMH、開云和歷峰三大奢侈品集團的野心。

            最近兩年,國內也出現了一家靠頻頻出手并購、似乎想朝著“時尚集團”發展的服裝品牌。

            以毛紡織起家的山東如意現如今更多的以購買國際大牌的姿態出現在公眾面前,是近兩年國際時尚市場上并購最為活躍的中國買家之一。

            山東如意集團前身為成立于1972年的濟寧毛紡織廠;1993年12月改制為股份有限公司;2007年12月在深圳證券交易所上市;2016年利用非公開發行股票部分募集資金將從事相關服裝業務的資產納入旗下。據其官網介紹,“現公司已經成為集精紡呢絨面料及服裝的設計、生產、銷售于一體的大型紡織服裝集團,擁有全球規模最大、最齊全的毛紡織服裝產業鏈。”

            如意集團是從服裝產業上游向下游布局的典型,近年來在全球市場上頻頻出手的巨資收購,讓其成為目前國內擁有最多國際品牌的時尚集團。

            如意方面表示,過去十年將其重心轉向全球資源配置。“在權威報告公布的2017全球100大奢侈品公司排行榜榜單中,如意旗下法國SMCP和日本RENOWN分別位列51位和58位。”其觸角從紡織領域延伸至產業上下游,目前有如意泰安工業園、賀蘭如意生態紡織產業園等以毛紡和棉紡為核心的13個國內園區,并在巴黎、米蘭、倫敦、東京設立了研發平臺。

            2016年4月,山東如意以13億歐元的價格收購法國輕奢集團SMCP,后者旗下Sandro、Maje和ClaudiePerlot三大服飾品牌因此成為“如意系”。2017年10月20日,SMCP集團在巴黎泛歐證券交易所完成股票發行并掛牌上市,成為如意控股集團旗下第三家上市公司,創同期行業IPO最大規模。

            2017年,如意以22億港元控股高端男裝集團利邦控股;以1.17億美元從YGM手中買下英國品牌Aquascutum雅格獅丹;同時不斷鞏固上游業務,10月28日,收購美國英威達旗下服飾和高級面料業務。

            從原料到品牌,如意集團顯然在時尚領域野心勃勃,若能拿下Bally,如意的男裝業務線組合將更加強勢。

          國內的市場蛋糕

            除了如意,來自福建的七匹狼也被業內稱為近年來活躍的“收購狼”,此前七匹狼以3.2億元投資著名設計師品牌KarlLagerfeld的中國運營實體,獲得KLSH在大中華地區的商標使用權,引起業內熱議,七匹狼方面表示這將為其打開輕奢服裝領域的窗口,創造新的利潤點。

            2017年8月30日,繼收購德國女裝品牌Laurèl、美國輕奢品牌EdHardy、法國設計師休閑品牌IRO后,深圳歌力思服飾股份有限公司再度出手,以3700萬拿下美國華裔設計師品牌VIVIENNETAM中國大陸運營權。

            2017年12月20日,意大利媒體稱意大利奢侈內衣品牌LaPerla的母公司PacificGlobalManagement已同意與中國復星集團就出售該豪華內衣集團的多數股權進行為期一個月的獨家盡調與談判。

            復星在奢侈品和消費領域的持股也越來越多。2017年復星先后增持意大利奢侈品男裝RaffaeleCarusoSpA股權和德國服飾品牌TomTailor的股份;6月以2.56億英鎊買下全球最大祖母綠礦商Gemfields;復星持有的時尚品牌還有美國女裝品牌St.John、希臘配飾品牌FolliFollie以及聯合歌力思收購法國時尚品牌IRO,并入股中國最大內衣零售商都市麗人。

            對于本土企業來說,“大部分的海外并購品牌都有一個特點就是必須具備能夠進入商場的條件。”瑞銀香港策略及零售業分析師梁裕昌在接受21世紀經濟報道采訪時表示,“由于消費者人流從步行街離開進入商場,品牌和運營商是否能進入商場發展會非常不一樣。由于許多本土品牌的主營業務并不具備進入商場的條件,只能用在路邊店賺到的現金流并購能夠進入商場的品牌。”

            本土服裝企業在2012年前后國外快時尚品牌進駐和電商的崛起帶來雙重沖擊下陷入轉型困境,除了并購,國內有實力的品牌也開始選擇進入大型商場的策略。

            2017年末,美特斯邦威宣布同時在全國開出一百六十余家門店,創始人周成建表示了對實體零售強烈的信心,“美邦未來將繼續調整渠道布局,不僅在一二線城市,更會在三至五線城市,逐步推進向各類購物中心等新興零售渠道轉移。”

            相較于此前在傳統商圈街邊店的形式,美邦開始向新興商圈的店鋪傾斜。2017年10月,美邦陸續與印力、新城、萬達等購物中心系統達成合作,周成建認為,“渠道升級正帶給美邦嶄新的發展機會。”

            “從價格的角度看,國內品牌的優勢是價格相對比較低。但是國外二線的品牌進入中國力度增加,這是國內品牌最大的威脅。”梁裕昌認為,“不用擔心市場前幾名的巨頭是不是會吃掉所有的份額,他們是相對比較穩定的,國內的品牌更需要擔心的是國外二線的品牌,因為其價格位于國內品牌與最領先品牌中間,品牌本身又具有多元性和獨特性。”(盧杉)

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